It’s been too long since my last post, and I’ve been home
for Christmas and New Year and come back to Lyon and still not actually had the
time to sit down in front of my computer and write my latest update. I imagine I’ve
already seen some of you back home over the holidays and filled you in on some
of it, but if not, or if you want to see my pictures, please read on. I’m going
to be talking about my experiences just before the Christmas break, and some of
those that I’ve had since coming back.
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Hôtel de Ville |
The days surrounding 8th December are a very
special time of year in the Lyon calendar. Every year, thousands of people
flock to the city from all over the country to visit and celebrate the famous
Fête des Lumières (festival of lights), drink vin chaud (mulled wine), and take
in all of the amazing illuminations. Four four nights between about 6pm and
1am, you can wander the streets of Lyon, and all over the city, there is
something to experience, from flying kites, to fireworks, to massive
projections, and there are candles lighting up the windows of many of the
houses in the city. The sheer scale and creativity of the event is unlike
anything I’ve ever seen.
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My favourite display |
Now for a little history to explain why all of this happens.
In 1852 a statue of the Virgin Mary was built on a hill overlooking the city of
Lyon, next to the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière. The
inauguration of the statue and the planned celebration was pushed back from 8th
September to 8th December, because the statue hadn’t been completed
due to the flooding of the River Saône. Many Catholics in the city suggested
lighting up the windows of their homes, as was the tradition for other events of
importance, such as royal celebrations and military victories. On the morning of
the 8th December, Lyon experienced quite a bad storm and the master
of ceremonies decided to cancel the celebrations. However the storm eventually
passed and the people of Lyon started to spontaneously light up their windows
and take to the streets of Lyon, lighting candles and flares to illuminate the
new statue whilst singing, and shouting "Vive Marie!"
throughout the night. Every year, this has been repeated until it evolved into
the massive festival that it is today. Pretty cool really!
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Parc de la Tête d'Or |
I went out to view the illuminations with friends on three
out of the four nights. We started with a night time bike ride along the bank
of the Rhône, before ending at le Parc de la Tête d’Or. There were some
interesting looking kites and some really pretty illuminations on the lake in
the middle of the park. We also headed to Vieux Lyon to watch the projections
on the face of Cathedral Saint Jean which were quite special. The next day we
wandered the streets of Lyon, watching the various projections, including those
at Place Bellecour, Hôtel de Ville and Lyon’s opera house. My personal
favourite that night was a combined projection and light show that explored
space and the planets of our solar system. On the last night of the festival we
climbed to the top of Fourvière hill to watch the closing night fireworks from
the front of the Basilica. It was on this night that we also ran into the
procession of people climbing the hill, singing songs and carrying candles, before
attending an open air mass on the steps of the Basilica. It was a truly magical
weekend, and one that I’ll certainly never forget!!!
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With my friend, Molly
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La belle ville de Lyon |
I managed a weekend trip to Germany on the train the weekend
before I returned to England for the break. I travelled to Cologne to visit Simone,
my old German exchange partner who I hadn’t see in around seven or eight years.
It made me realise how quickly time has passed since I was at school! It was lovely
to see her after so long, and I enjoyed exploring the weinachtsmarkt (Christmas
market), a very interesting Pop Art gallery, and drinking glühwein and feuerzangenbowle,
which is essentially glühwein but with rum added for an extra kick. Before I
knew it though, I was on the train back to Lyon, ready for my next adventure.
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Christmas market in front of Strasbourg Cathedral |
On Tuesday 16th December, I went to Strasbourg
for the day with my Australian friend Marie-Laure (hi Marie-Laure…you got another
mention!). I had been wanting to experience it since I got off the train in Lyon
back on August 23rd and so naturally I was “super excited”! We got
there just before the Christmas markets opened for the day so we treated
ourselves to breakfast before heading out. Strasbourg is so pretty, and unlike
anywhere else I’ve seen so far in France; the German influence is plain to see
in all the Alsatian architecture, cuisine and accents! We wandered around the
many markets spread across the city, bought Christmas presents, went in the
Cathedral, ate flammeküche/tarte
flambée and drank hot chocolate and hot spiced apple juice. Despite the early
start, the late-night return and the very chilly weather, the day was
absolutely divine and completely lived up to my anticipation and expectation!
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With my travel buddy, Marie-Laure! |
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Strasbourg. How pretty is this! |
I spent
just over two weeks back in Nottingham for a very chilled out and peaceful
Christmas and New Year with family and friends before returning to Lyon on 5th
January. I have, as of Friday, finished all of my exams and handed in all of my
essays here at Université Lyon 3, and now have just two weeks left before I
travel to Italy for my second semester in Bologna. I’m excited to start the
next stage of my adventure, but at the same time I’ll be sad to say goodbye to
Lyon for the second time in my life. I truly love this city and all those who I’ve
made friends with here. So two more weeks here in Lyon to spend time with now
not-so-new but very good friends, and I’ve already started to make the most of
it with joint lunches, dinners and film nights, coffees and shopping, as well
as trips to various bars, and an evening of watching Lyon beat Toulouse 3-0 and go top of Ligue 1 this weekend! This week hasn’t been without it’s sad moments. The tragic
events of the Charlie Hebdo shootings sent a shock wave across France and truly
broke my heart. Nevertheless, the solidarity and compassion I have seen at the
very peaceful candle-lit vigil (attended by around 10-15,000) and silent
protest march (attended by 250,000) in Lyon have united the city and the
country (regardless what people's stances are on the attack and aftermath in general), and despite the heightened security and
police presence, there has been a very calm and nonthreatening atmosphere in the city.